Applied Photoethnography to (Re)Designing Bodies: A Male Fashion Investigation.
Body. Men's fashion. History of fashion. Photoethnography.
The present research hypothesizes that the male body has been socially constructed and perceived as a fashion artifact. Similar to clothing, the body's muscles are shaped as a design object and socially traded as a commodity. To solidify the understanding of this potential commodification of the physical status of the male body, a historical narrative of recent fashion is traced, highlighting the macro-elements, political, economic, and social factors that facilitated this shift in fashion perspective. This study explores the realm of men's fashion design and its interactions with body construction, revealing the strategies adopted by a specific group of urban men to shape and transform their physical forms, as well as the complexities and symbolism involved in the pursuit of bodily (re)design since the 1960s. By utilizing photoethnographic tools applied to fashion thinking and constructing a historical- theoretical narrative, this study aims to explain how a certain group of men in urban environments develops established strategies among themselves to project and construct their bodies, as well as the symbolism present in their relationships and the dilemmas faced in the pursuit of this bodily (re)design. The argument put forth is that the male body, under cultural and consumer pressures, is elevated to the status of a fashion object, with clothing playing a fundamental role in framing this bodily project. The research field encompasses pool parties held in seven Brazilian states: Alagoas, Paraíba, Pernambuco, Rio de Janeiro, Rio Grande do Norte, São Paulo, and the Federal District. Photoethnographic immersions were conducted to record behavior and routines through an aesthetic lens, with fashion optics serving as a reference for the production and editing of photographic material. As a result of this research, a photoethnographic essay is produced to present the gathered results, while engaging in a theoretical dialogue within the field. A theoretical panorama of men's fashion is constructed, connecting historical, social, and cultural events, key aesthetic movements, and political changes within men's fashion that have contributed to the development of a contemporary homoerotic vision. The study also examines how fashion has influenced its consumers and, throughout the 20th century, how it has been influenced by homoerotic aesthetics. Thus, the aim is to comprehend how the male body is influenced and contributes to the identity construction of concepts such as beauty, masculinity, and virility.